Tuesday, 15 August 2017

Quick and Easy Floral Harmony card created for Chocolate Baroque

Good morning. Today I am sharing another of my show samples for Chocolate Baroque using another of the lovely stamps recently featured on Hochanda. This is also a quick and easy one using the Floral Harmony stamp.


Materials:
How to make it:
  1. Stamp and heat emboss the image and sentiment with white powder.
  2. Spray over the image with ink sprays, spraying more pink ink over the flower. While the ink is still wet drag out the colour over the stamped image using a damp brush. The embossed line makes this quick and easy. Use a little extra water and blotting with tissue where the colour needs lifting out and lightening.
  3. Drag some of the ink out across the base to anchor the image. I used a hair dryer to speed up the drying (a heat gun can bleach out some of the colour and may re-melt the embossing).
  4. Outline the topper with burgundy pen to frame and glue to the card front.

Quick and easy Chequered Flowers card created for Chocolate Baroque

Good morning. This one is a quick and easy card using the Chequered Flowers stamp from Chocolate Baroque.


 
Materials:

How to make it:
  1. Trim the stamping card to fit onto the card front. Mask the border using a strip of copy paper (tip: cut the strip wider than the card and tape to craft mat at either side).
  2. Repeat stamp the image across the card front.
  3. Remove the mask, stamp the sentiment and draw the border edges with black pen and a ruler. Colour the bottom edge with 3D glaze gel pen.
  4. Edge the topper with black marker to frame and glue to the card front.
  5. Stamp another flower onto scrap card, colour quickly with watercolour pen (don’t worry about staying within the lines – just scribble over to colour). Cut out the flower, shape slightly and glue to card front.
  6. Finish with clear sparkle pen over the background flowers, and by drawing faux gems and shiny detail on coloured flower with 3D glaze gel pen.

Sunday, 13 August 2017

Sneak Peek of my first show samples for Powertex on Hochanda tomorrow

Tracey Evans and Powertex are back on Hochanda tomorrow at 6pm and 8pm (Freeview channel 85). More shows on Tues 9am, 1 and 5pm. Here is a sneak peek of my first set of samples.
 
There are fabulous new stamps, stencils and more. I cannot wait to see the demos and Design Team samples.



Saturday, 5 August 2017

Chequered Golden Flower card created for Chocolate Baroque


Good morning. This is another of my recent show samples using the Chequered Flowers stamp.

Materials:
How to make it:
  1. Spread the relief paste over the stamp with a palette knife and leave to dry. Drying time depends on room temperature and humidity but it will need at least a day. Mine took 2 days to fully dry. When dry gently peel away from the stamp and trim around to neaten up any messy edges.
  2. Stamp the image with Versafine and heat emboss with gold powder. Colour with watercolour pens and a damp brush. The embossed lines resist the water and make colouring quick and easy.
  3. Apply a couple of drops of glycerine to a blending sponge and work in well. Now use this to pick up watercolour from your craft mat. Blend colour around the edges of the card. The Glycerine make the watercolour behave more like a Distress Ink making blending easy.
  4. Apply Versamark Ink along the card edges and heat emboss with gold powder.
  5. Glue down the paste embellishment. Attach the ribbon and bow, then glue panel to the card front.
  6. Finish with PVA pearls

Sunday, 30 July 2017

Floral Thank You card created for Chocolate Baroque

Good afternoon. Today I am sharing one of my samples for the recent shows from Chocolate Baroque on Hochanda using the lovely Floral Harmony stamp. I love creating these blue and white designs.


 
Materials:
How it was made:
  1. I coloured the card blank blending colour onto the card using a sponge and Distress Ink. The card was not designed for blending ink so I used the trick from Sheen Douglass adding a little glycerine to my sponge before adding ink. This enabled it to blend out much more easily.
  2. I cut out the stamping plate and blended ink in from the edges. I also added faux stitching around the topper and card blank with the fine pen.
  3. The image and sentiment were stamped with Distress Ink. I then used a damp brush to drag out the colour. Where needed I added further colour picking up ink from my craft mat.
  4. The topper was added to the card blank with 3D foam for added depth and dimension. Finished with ribbon and PVA pearls.

Monday, 24 July 2017

New colouring pages and stamps launching on Hochanda today from Chocolate Baroque


Woohoo – new colouring pages from Chocolate Baroque featuring on Hochanda today (shows at 6 and 8pm) plus tomorrow (shows 9am, 1pm and 5pm). There is also a bumper kit containing all the new stamps too. Watch on Freeview Channel 85 or via the Hochanda.com website (live or on catch up if you miss a show). Cannot wait to see all the wonderful samples from my fellow Teamies and FAB demos from Lesley Wharton – always inspiring. The new Baroque floral stamps are fabulous too. I will share more of my projects soon.

These are my colouring pages coloured with alcohol ink pens plus a bit of sparkle pen and glaze pen to enhance. These are great for making finished pieces for framing or simply to have fun colouring. The kits also contain a colour wheel and tips for mixing colours and colouring too.

Sunday, 23 July 2017

Excited to be joining the Powertex Team as a guest blogger

I am so excited to be joining the Powertex Team as a guest blogger and am really looking forward to sharing my new creative journey with you all.

I am an ex medical scientist now self employed in jewellery and textiles. I also enjoy mixed media and card making too and am on the Design Team of a stamp company and a textile trimmings maker, so regularly blog my projects. I really enjoy helping people along on their own creative journey.

A couple of weeks ago I ventured up to Powertex UK HQ to take my Level 1 training. Tracey, Garry and the lovely team were all so welcoming and made me feel instantly at ease. I met some lovely people on the course and we spent a wonderful couple of days creating in Tracey’s studio. There were many wonderful projects on display from Tracey and the Design Team. Amazing talent and such an inspiration.

I managed to catch a pic of myself and Tracey in the garden. Tracey is the attractive one – tee hee.

 
 
The course was very intensive and we each created a wide range of projects, ranging from mixed media canvases and journal covers right up to a figurine. We were also given masses of useful guidance and information on setting up workshops for ourselves too. I learned so much and we all had a lot of fun and plenty of laughter along the way.

I have had a busy couple of weeks on my return and still have to put the finishing touches to my Level 1 projects. I will share them soon. In the meantime I thought that I would share my first ever ventures into the world of Powertex, following one of Tracey’s shows on Hochanda.



 
I created a couple of 30 cm square fossil themed canvases and a covered bottle – I hope that you like them. I was really pleased with the natural organic feel. Some of my friends thought that I had used real fossils. Being my first projects I hope that you will see what a beginner can achieve.


Below I have included a materials list and the step by step of techniques used to create the canvases, including some hints and tips to get the best results. The embellished bottle was created in the same way.
Happy crafting, Anne x.
 
Materials used:
 
How they were made:
  1. The canvases were already primed with gesso so I first gave them a coat of Powertex to colour and create a good surface for adhesion.
  2. I mixed up some Powertex with sand to make a thick paste. When the canvases were dry to the touch (it doesn’t take long) I applied the paste to the background using a palette knife through the stencil to create fossil textures. I then left them overnight to dry.
  3. I mixed more sand with Poweretex, this time to make a thicker drier clay. I think that the mix was about 50:50. Basically I gradually added sand until I had a workable clay that wasn’t too wet and sticky. I then pushed the clay into the silicone moulds to create the 3D fossils. I left them to dry for several hours until they could easily be released from the moulds without distorting. Some of the bigger ones needed to be left overnight. I then placed them on a drying tray (old kitchen wire grill tray – so air could get all around) and left them overnight to dry and further harden up. I made the clay up in small manageable batches so as not to waste reagents. Any clay that wasn’t being used straight away was wrapped in cling film to stop it drying out.
  4. Next I worked the Powertex into rough strips of hessian, and some pulled threads. I did struggle a bit with this at first as I used far too much Powertex. If you overdo it, like I did, grab another strip of fabric and use it to dab and squeeze out the excess. These were then ruched and applied to the canvas using a little extra Powertex as a glue where needed.
  5. I then applied my fossils using Powertex to glue. In some of the more textured areas I dunked some of the kitchen towel in Powertex to make a 3D glue ‘gel’ in which to embed my fossil embellishments. I also used strips of kitchen paper to create more areas of texture. I found that it was best to separate the paper into a single ply (i.e. split the double layered tissue into 2 sheets) to ensure that it fully coated and soaked up the Powertex more easily.
  6. Next I drizzled Powertex onto the canvas and sprinkled with texture balls and sand, plus a few glass beads. It is best to apply the largest balls first, then work down to the smaller sizes which fill in the gaps between the larger ones. Oh so much fun. I then left them to dry overnight ready for colouring.
  7. My canvas board was a cheap cardboard type and I found that it did warp quite a bit. When dry enough I clamped it down on my rigid art board to help straighten it out while drying. A thicker strong board (MDF type) does work better. It needs to take a lot of wet media. This was obviously not an issue when working on the stretched canvas.
  8. I was then ready to start adding more colour and depth with Bister and coloured varnish. Here is where I did have a slight panic. I first sprayed over my canvases with black Bister. When dry I then used a damp sponge to lift away some of the colour from the top layers. The idea was to emphasis the deep crevices and texture. Eeek – I thought that I had ruined it! The soluble Bister did lift off some areas but it was difficult to remove from others. My texture balls soaked it up and the hessian held onto quite a lot of it too. So where I had planned my colours and light areas got covered in darkness! Oh dear I thought (me swear? Tee hee).
  9. After I had calmed down, it then came to me. I could go over some of the areas using the Powertex as a paint. In addition I had opaque white Powercolor in my stash so I could use that too at the varnish stage. I over painted some of the areas with the coloured Powertex. I also used the Powertex to dry brush over areas giving more highlights. So all was not lost after all. Some of the Bister dissolved back into the Powertex as I worked giving a lovely natural organic look. Ooooh happy again.
  10. When the Powertex was touch dry I then dry brushed with the pigments and varnish. This stage takes a little practice. You need to mix just small amounts of varnish with the pigments (just a drop on your craft mat), remove most of it from the brush (brushing off onto tissue), then apply to the top layers lightly and gradually building up the colour. I mixed a tiny bit of ochre into white pigment (so not a harsh white) to dry brush some areas. Other areas I dry brushed with copper colour.
  11. To fully seal my canvas I mixed a 50:50 mix of varnish and water and sprayed it over the canvas. Spraying enabled me to get it in and around all the crevices and 3D embellishments. I applied several coats (leaving to dry between coats). This then makes the canvas easy to clean as it can simply be run under the tap (where cleaning with a duster or cloth would be tricky). If mounting your piece behind glass this stage would not be needed. Note: Coloured Powertex is weatherproof so complete sealing with varnish is not essential unless you have used Bister (remains soluble so would wash off unless sealed with varnish).
  12. Finally I added a bit of gilding wax around the edges of my canvases (this could be done with coloured varnish).